Citrus Heights, CA Planting Dates

The four dates that matter

Date	When	What it means
Last spring frost (50%)	Feb 22	Half of all years see a freeze after this date. It is an average, not a guarantee.
Last spring frost (10%)	Mar 25	Only one year in ten freezes after this. Use it for anything you cannot afford to replant.
First fall frost (50%)	Dec 1	Half of all years freeze before this date. Fall crops are counted back from here.
First fall frost (10%)	Nov 13	An early-freeze year. If a crop must finish, aim to harvest before this.

USDA zone 9b 282 frost-free days Modelled estimate

Spring & summer planting in Citrus Heights

Dates are calculated from this location's own last-frost date, not from a generic zone chart. “Best moon days” are the days inside each window that fall in the crop's traditional phase — the same rule the app uses.

Crop	Start seed indoors	Plant outdoors	Best moon days	Days to harvest
Garlic cloves/sets Better planted in fall — see below	—	Jan 6 – Feb 6	Jan 6–9, Feb 2–3 Waning Gibbous	240–300
Asparagus (crowns) transplant	—	Jan 11 – Feb 15	Jan 25 First Quarter	perennial — first real harvest 2–3 years
Chives either	Dec 28	Jan 11 – Feb 15	Jan 19–24 Waxing Crescent	75–90
Onion (from sets/transplants) cloves/sets	—	Jan 11 – Feb 15	Feb 2–7 Waning Gibbous	90–120
Peas (English/snap) direct sow	—	Jan 11 – Feb 15	Jan 25 First Quarter	55–75
Spinach direct sow	—	Jan 11 – Feb 15	Jan 19–24 Waxing Crescent	35–50
Cabbage transplant	Dec 21	Jan 18 – Feb 15	Jan 19–24 Waxing Crescent	65–90
Collards either	Jan 11	Jan 18 – Mar 8	Jan 19–24 Waxing Crescent	55–85
Kale either	Jan 11	Jan 18 – Feb 22	Jan 19–24 Waxing Crescent	50–65
Lettuce (leaf) either	Jan 18	Jan 18 – Mar 15	Jan 19–24 Waxing Crescent	40–55
Potato cloves/sets	—	Jan 18 – Feb 22	Feb 1 Full Moon	70–120
Radish direct sow	—	Jan 18 – Mar 15	Feb 2–7 Waning Gibbous	22–35
Turnip direct sow	—	Jan 18 – Mar 1	Feb 2–7 Waning Gibbous	40–60
Broccoli transplant	Dec 21	Jan 23 – Feb 22	Jan 23–24, Feb 18–21 Waxing Crescent	55–80
Brussels Sprouts transplant	Dec 21	Jan 23 – Feb 22	Jan 23–24, Feb 18–21 Waxing Crescent	90–110
Leek transplant	Dec 14	Jan 23 – Feb 22	Feb 2–7 Waning Gibbous	100–120
Lettuce (head) transplant	Jan 4	Jan 23 – Feb 22	Jan 23–24, Feb 18–21 Waxing Crescent	60–85
Parsley either	Dec 21	Jan 23 – Mar 1	Jan 23–24, Feb 18–21 Waxing Crescent	70–90
Parsnip direct sow	—	Jan 23 – Mar 1	Feb 1 Full Moon	100–150
Shallot cloves/sets Better planted in fall — see below	—	Jan 23 – Feb 22	Feb 2–7 Waning Gibbous	90–120
Beet direct sow	—	Jan 25 – Mar 15	Feb 1, Mar 3 Full Moon	50–65
Kohlrabi either	Jan 11	Jan 25 – Mar 1	Feb 18–23 Waxing Crescent	45–60
Carrot direct sow	—	Feb 1 – Mar 15	Feb 1, Mar 3 Full Moon	65–85
Cauliflower transplant	Dec 21	Feb 1 – Feb 22	Feb 18–22 Waxing Crescent	55–80
Cilantro direct sow	—	Feb 1 – Mar 15	Feb 18–23 Waxing Crescent	45–70
Swiss Chard direct sow	—	Feb 1 – Mar 24	Feb 18–23 Waxing Crescent	50–60
Dill direct sow	—	Feb 8 – Mar 24	Feb 18–23 Waxing Crescent	40–60
Cucumber either	Feb 1	Feb 22 – Mar 24	Feb 24 First Quarter	50–70
Green Beans (bush) direct sow	—	Feb 22 – Apr 8	Feb 24, Mar 25 First Quarter	50–65
Oregano transplant	Dec 28	Feb 22 – Mar 15	Feb 24 First Quarter	cut as needed
Sage transplant	Dec 28	Feb 22 – Mar 15	Feb 24 First Quarter	cut as needed
Sweet Corn direct sow	—	Feb 22 – Apr 8	Feb 24, Mar 25 First Quarter	60–100
Thyme transplant	Dec 28	Feb 22 – Mar 15	Feb 24 First Quarter	cut as needed
Zucchini / Summer Squash either	Feb 1	Feb 22 – Mar 24	Feb 24 First Quarter	45–60
Basil either	Jan 11	Mar 1 – Mar 24	Mar 19–24 Waxing Crescent	30–60
Dry Beans direct sow	—	Mar 1 – Mar 29	Mar 25 First Quarter	85–100
Pole Beans direct sow	—	Mar 1 – Apr 3	Mar 25 First Quarter	60–75
Pumpkin direct sow	Feb 1	Mar 1 – Mar 29	Mar 25 First Quarter	90–120
Rosemary transplant	Feb 22	Mar 1 – Mar 24	— First Quarter	cut as needed
Tomatillo transplant	Jan 11	Mar 1 – Mar 24	— First Quarter	60–75
Tomato transplant	Jan 11	Mar 1 – Mar 24	— First Quarter	60–85
Winter Squash direct sow	Feb 1	Mar 1 – Mar 29	Mar 25 First Quarter	85–110
Cantaloupe / Muskmelon either	Feb 1	Mar 8 – Mar 29	Mar 25 First Quarter	75–90
Eggplant transplant	Dec 28	Mar 8 – Mar 29	Mar 25 First Quarter	60–90
Okra direct sow	Jan 25	Mar 8 – Apr 3	Mar 25 First Quarter	50–70
Pepper transplant	Dec 28	Mar 8 – Mar 29	Mar 25 First Quarter	60–90
Sweet Potato slips	—	Mar 8 – Apr 3	Mar 8–10, Apr 2–3 Waning Gibbous	90–150
Watermelon either	Feb 1	Mar 8 – Mar 29	Mar 25 First Quarter	70–90
Strawberry (crowns) transplant	—	Dec 24 – Feb 1	Jan 3, Feb 1 Full Moon	perennial — first real harvest next season

Fall planting in Citrus Heights

Fall dates count backward from the first frost, and they add time back for the “fall factor” — days are shortening and cooling, so a crop grows slower than the seed packet promises. Sowing late is the single most common way a fall garden fails.

Crop	Sow or set out	Best moon days	Days to harvest	Hardiness
Tomato	Jul 16 – Aug 21	Jul 21, Aug 19	60–85	very tender
Brussels Sprouts	Jul 19 – Aug 5	Jul 19–20	90–110	hardy
Potato	Jul 24 – Aug 25	Jul 29	70–120	semi-hardy
Sweet Corn	Jul 29 – Aug 21	Aug 19	60–100	tender
Pole Beans	Aug 8 – Aug 21	Aug 19	60–75	tender
Parsley	Aug 11 – Aug 25	Aug 13–18	70–90	semi-hardy
Okra	Aug 13 – Sep 12	Aug 19	50–70	very tender
Cabbage	Aug 18 – Aug 30	Aug 18	65–90	hardy
Carrot	Aug 18 – Aug 30	Aug 27	65–85	semi-hardy
Collards	Aug 18 – Sep 9	Aug 18	55–85	hardy
Cucumber	Aug 18 – Aug 31	Aug 19	50–70	tender
Broccoli	Aug 23 – Sep 9	—	55–80	hardy
Cauliflower	Aug 23 – Sep 9	—	55–80	semi-hardy
Green Beans (bush)	Aug 23 – Aug 31	—	50–65	tender
Lettuce (head)	Aug 23 – Sep 4	—	60–85	semi-hardy
Peas (English/snap)	Aug 23 – Sep 9	—	55–75	hardy
Beet	Aug 28 – Sep 14	—	50–65	semi-hardy
Kale	Aug 28 – Sep 14	Sep 11–14	50–65	hardy
Swiss Chard	Aug 28 – Sep 14	Sep 11–14	50–60	semi-hardy
Zucchini / Summer Squash	Aug 28 – Sep 5	—	45–60	tender
Basil	Sep 2 – Sep 20	Sep 11–16	30–60	very tender
Kohlrabi	Sep 2 – Sep 19	Sep 11–16	45–60	hardy
Cilantro	Sep 7 – Sep 19	Sep 11–16	45–70	semi-hardy
Lettuce (leaf)	Sep 7 – Sep 24	Sep 11–16	40–55	semi-hardy
Turnip	Sep 7 – Sep 24	—	40–60	hardy
Spinach	Sep 12 – Sep 29	Sep 12–17	35–50	hardy
Dill	Sep 17 – Sep 24	Sep 17	40–60	semi-hardy
Radish	Sep 17 – Oct 12	Sep 27–Oct 2	22–35	hardy
Garlic	Nov 1 – Dec 22	Nov 25–29	240–300	hardy
Shallot	Nov 15 – Dec 16	Nov 25–29	90–120	hardy

Bottom line: the 50% frost date is a coin flip, not a green light. If you would be sick about losing a flat of tomatoes, plant to the Mar 25 date instead and keep a row cover handy either way.

Where these numbers come from

There is no long-record weather station inside Citrus Heights itself, so these frost dates are modelled, not observed. They come from a half-degree climate grid built by fitting the freeze dates of 6,808 NOAA stations (1991–2020 Normals) against terrain and the USDA 2023 hardiness raster, then reading the cell your city sits in. Checked against the stations themselves, that model lands within about a week on average — and its zone matches the station's exactly 67% of the time and within one half-zone 97% of the time. A cell covers roughly 35 by 28 miles, so this is a neighborhood answer, not a backyard one. If there is a station-backed location near you, prefer it.

How precise is any of this?

Extension recommendations for the same crop routinely disagree by two to four weeks, and occasionally more, so these offsets should be presented as windows and starting points rather than deadlines. Three things drive the spread. (1) Regional risk tolerance: for warm-season crops, Colorado State and Utah State put tomatoes, peppers and melons out about 14 days after the last frost, while University of Missouri's calendar works out to roughly 25-35 days after the last frost and University of Maryland's window runs from the frost date itself out to 45 days past it. That is a real 6-week spread for the single most popular garden crop, and it exists because a short-season mountain state is optimizing against a short season while a humid continental state is optimizing against cold, wet spring soil. (2) Soil temperature versus calendar date: most Extension services now say the honest trigger is soil temperature at 4 inches, not the frost date, and the frost-relative number is a convenience translation. A cold, wet spring can push the real date two or three weeks past the calendar recommendation. (3) Days-to-maturity is variety-specific and is measured differently for direct-seeded versus transplanted crops - seed catalogs count from transplant date for tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and cole crops, but from sowing for roots and greens - so a 'days to maturity' range of 60-85 for tomato is genuinely 60-85 depending on which packet you bought. Additionally, the average last frost is a 50% probability, meaning half of all years have a frost after that date; Extension services commonly advise waiting 1-2 weeks past it for anything frost-tender, or being prepared to cover. Treat every number here as plus or minus about 10-14 days.

On the station itself: a weather station is one point. Cities hold their heat, valleys pool cold air, and a garden on a north slope can run two weeks behind one a mile away. Treat this page as your starting point and let your own garden correct it — that is exactly what the journal in the app is for.

Nearby locations

Roseville, CA zone 9b Arden-Arcade, CA zone 9b Sacramento, CA zone 9b Elk Grove, CA zone 9b Vacaville, CA zone 9b Fairfield, CA zone 9b

Want this on your phone, in your garden? Moon Phase Garden keeps your frost dates, your planting windows and tonight's moon phase in one place, works offline, and lets you override these dates with what your own garden actually does. Free and ad-free.

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