The Woodlands, TX Planting Dates

The four dates that matter

Date	When	What it means
Last spring frost (50%)	Feb 25	Half of all years see a freeze after this date. It is an average, not a guarantee.
Last spring frost (10%)	Mar 21	Only one year in ten freezes after this. Use it for anything you cannot afford to replant.
First fall frost (50%)	Nov 30	Half of all years freeze before this date. Fall crops are counted back from here.
First fall frost (10%)	Nov 9	An early-freeze year. If a crop must finish, aim to harvest before this.

USDA zone 9a 278 frost-free days Modelled estimate

Spring & summer planting in The Woodlands

Dates are calculated from this location's own last-frost date, not from a generic zone chart. “Best moon days” are the days inside each window that fall in the crop's traditional phase — the same rule the app uses.

Crop	Start seed indoors	Plant outdoors	Best moon days	Days to harvest
Garlic cloves/sets Better planted in fall — see below	—	Jan 9 – Feb 9	Jan 9, Feb 2–6 Waning Gibbous	240–300
Asparagus (crowns) transplant	—	Jan 14 – Feb 18	Jan 25 First Quarter	perennial — first real harvest 2–3 years
Chives either	Dec 31	Jan 14 – Feb 18	Jan 19–24 Waxing Crescent	75–90
Onion (from sets/transplants) cloves/sets	—	Jan 14 – Feb 18	Feb 2–7 Waning Gibbous	90–120
Peas (English/snap) direct sow	—	Jan 14 – Feb 18	Jan 25 First Quarter	55–75
Spinach direct sow	—	Jan 14 – Feb 18	Jan 19–24 Waxing Crescent	35–50
Cabbage transplant	Dec 24	Jan 21 – Feb 18	Jan 21–24, Feb 18 Waxing Crescent	65–90
Collards either	Jan 14	Jan 21 – Mar 11	Jan 21–24, Feb 18–19 Waxing Crescent	55–85
Kale either	Jan 14	Jan 21 – Feb 25	Jan 21–24, Feb 18–19 Waxing Crescent	50–65
Lettuce (leaf) either	Jan 21	Jan 21 – Mar 18	Jan 21–24, Feb 18–19 Waxing Crescent	40–55
Potato cloves/sets	—	Jan 21 – Feb 25	Feb 1 Full Moon	70–120
Radish direct sow	—	Jan 21 – Mar 18	Feb 2–7 Waning Gibbous	22–35
Turnip direct sow	—	Jan 21 – Mar 4	Feb 2–7 Waning Gibbous	40–60
Broccoli transplant	Dec 24	Jan 26 – Feb 25	Feb 18–23 Waxing Crescent	55–80
Brussels Sprouts transplant	Dec 24	Jan 26 – Feb 25	Feb 18–23 Waxing Crescent	90–110
Leek transplant	Dec 17	Jan 26 – Feb 25	Feb 2–7 Waning Gibbous	100–120
Lettuce (head) transplant	Jan 7	Jan 26 – Feb 25	Feb 18–23 Waxing Crescent	60–85
Parsley either	Dec 24	Jan 26 – Mar 4	Feb 18–23 Waxing Crescent	70–90
Parsnip direct sow	—	Jan 26 – Mar 4	Feb 1, Mar 3 Full Moon	100–150
Shallot cloves/sets Better planted in fall — see below	—	Jan 26 – Feb 25	Feb 2–7 Waning Gibbous	90–120
Beet direct sow	—	Jan 28 – Mar 18	Feb 1, Mar 3 Full Moon	50–65
Kohlrabi either	Jan 14	Jan 28 – Mar 4	Feb 18–23 Waxing Crescent	45–60
Carrot direct sow	—	Feb 4 – Mar 18	Mar 3 Full Moon	65–85
Cauliflower transplant	Dec 24	Feb 4 – Feb 25	Feb 18–23 Waxing Crescent	55–80
Cilantro direct sow	—	Feb 4 – Mar 18	Feb 18–23 Waxing Crescent	45–70
Swiss Chard direct sow	—	Feb 4 – Mar 27	Feb 18–23 Waxing Crescent	50–60
Dill direct sow	—	Feb 11 – Mar 27	Feb 18–23 Waxing Crescent	40–60
Cucumber either	Feb 4	Feb 25 – Mar 27	Mar 25 First Quarter	50–70
Green Beans (bush) direct sow	—	Feb 25 – Apr 11	Mar 25 First Quarter	50–65
Oregano transplant	Dec 31	Feb 25 – Mar 18	— First Quarter	cut as needed
Sage transplant	Dec 31	Feb 25 – Mar 18	— First Quarter	cut as needed
Sweet Corn direct sow	—	Feb 25 – Apr 11	Mar 25 First Quarter	60–100
Thyme transplant	Dec 31	Feb 25 – Mar 18	— First Quarter	cut as needed
Zucchini / Summer Squash either	Feb 4	Feb 25 – Mar 27	Mar 25 First Quarter	45–60
Basil either	Jan 14	Mar 4 – Mar 27	Mar 19–24 Waxing Crescent	30–60
Dry Beans direct sow	—	Mar 4 – Apr 1	Mar 25 First Quarter	85–100
Pole Beans direct sow	—	Mar 4 – Apr 6	Mar 25 First Quarter	60–75
Pumpkin direct sow	Feb 4	Mar 4 – Apr 1	Mar 25 First Quarter	90–120
Rosemary transplant	Feb 25	Mar 4 – Mar 27	Mar 25 First Quarter	cut as needed
Tomatillo transplant	Jan 14	Mar 4 – Mar 27	Mar 25 First Quarter	60–75
Tomato transplant	Jan 14	Mar 4 – Mar 27	Mar 25 First Quarter	60–85
Winter Squash direct sow	Feb 4	Mar 4 – Apr 1	Mar 25 First Quarter	85–110
Cantaloupe / Muskmelon either	Feb 4	Mar 11 – Apr 1	Mar 25 First Quarter	75–90
Eggplant transplant	Dec 31	Mar 11 – Apr 1	Mar 25 First Quarter	60–90
Okra direct sow	Jan 28	Mar 11 – Apr 6	Mar 25 First Quarter	50–70
Pepper transplant	Dec 31	Mar 11 – Apr 1	Mar 25 First Quarter	60–90
Sweet Potato slips	—	Mar 11 – Apr 6	Apr 2–6 Waning Gibbous	90–150
Watermelon either	Feb 4	Mar 11 – Apr 1	Mar 25 First Quarter	70–90
Strawberry (crowns) transplant	—	Dec 27 – Feb 4	Jan 3, Feb 1 Full Moon	perennial — first real harvest next season

Fall planting in The Woodlands

Fall dates count backward from the first frost, and they add time back for the “fall factor” — days are shortening and cooling, so a crop grows slower than the seed packet promises. Sowing late is the single most common way a fall garden fails.

Crop	Sow or set out	Best moon days	Days to harvest	Hardiness
Tomato	Jul 15 – Aug 20	Jul 21, Aug 19	60–85	very tender
Brussels Sprouts	Jul 18 – Aug 4	Jul 18–20	90–110	hardy
Potato	Jul 23 – Aug 24	Jul 29	70–120	semi-hardy
Sweet Corn	Jul 28 – Aug 20	Aug 19	60–100	tender
Pole Beans	Aug 7 – Aug 20	Aug 19	60–75	tender
Parsley	Aug 10 – Aug 24	Aug 13–18	70–90	semi-hardy
Okra	Aug 12 – Sep 11	Aug 19	50–70	very tender
Cabbage	Aug 17 – Aug 29	Aug 17–18	65–90	hardy
Carrot	Aug 17 – Aug 29	Aug 27	65–85	semi-hardy
Collards	Aug 17 – Sep 8	Aug 17–18	55–85	hardy
Cucumber	Aug 17 – Aug 30	Aug 19	50–70	tender
Broccoli	Aug 22 – Sep 8	—	55–80	hardy
Cauliflower	Aug 22 – Sep 8	—	55–80	semi-hardy
Green Beans (bush)	Aug 22 – Aug 30	—	50–65	tender
Lettuce (head)	Aug 22 – Sep 3	—	60–85	semi-hardy
Peas (English/snap)	Aug 22 – Sep 8	—	55–75	hardy
Beet	Aug 27 – Sep 13	Aug 27	50–65	semi-hardy
Kale	Aug 27 – Sep 13	Sep 11–13	50–65	hardy
Swiss Chard	Aug 27 – Sep 13	Sep 11–13	50–60	semi-hardy
Zucchini / Summer Squash	Aug 27 – Sep 4	—	45–60	tender
Basil	Sep 1 – Sep 19	Sep 11–16	30–60	very tender
Kohlrabi	Sep 1 – Sep 18	Sep 11–16	45–60	hardy
Cilantro	Sep 6 – Sep 18	Sep 11–16	45–70	semi-hardy
Lettuce (leaf)	Sep 6 – Sep 23	Sep 11–16	40–55	semi-hardy
Turnip	Sep 6 – Sep 23	—	40–60	hardy
Spinach	Sep 11 – Sep 28	Sep 11–16	35–50	hardy
Dill	Sep 16 – Sep 23	Sep 16–17	40–60	semi-hardy
Radish	Sep 16 – Oct 11	Sep 27–Oct 2	22–35	hardy
Garlic	Oct 31 – Dec 21	Oct 31, Nov 25–29	240–300	hardy
Shallot	Nov 14 – Dec 15	Nov 25–30	90–120	hardy

Bottom line: the 50% frost date is a coin flip, not a green light. If you would be sick about losing a flat of tomatoes, plant to the Mar 21 date instead and keep a row cover handy either way.

Where these numbers come from

There is no long-record weather station inside The Woodlands itself, so these frost dates are modelled, not observed. They come from a half-degree climate grid built by fitting the freeze dates of 6,808 NOAA stations (1991–2020 Normals) against terrain and the USDA 2023 hardiness raster, then reading the cell your city sits in. Checked against the stations themselves, that model lands within about a week on average — and its zone matches the station's exactly 67% of the time and within one half-zone 97% of the time. A cell covers roughly 35 by 28 miles, so this is a neighborhood answer, not a backyard one. If there is a station-backed location near you, prefer it.

How precise is any of this?

Extension recommendations for the same crop routinely disagree by two to four weeks, and occasionally more, so these offsets should be presented as windows and starting points rather than deadlines. Three things drive the spread. (1) Regional risk tolerance: for warm-season crops, Colorado State and Utah State put tomatoes, peppers and melons out about 14 days after the last frost, while University of Missouri's calendar works out to roughly 25-35 days after the last frost and University of Maryland's window runs from the frost date itself out to 45 days past it. That is a real 6-week spread for the single most popular garden crop, and it exists because a short-season mountain state is optimizing against a short season while a humid continental state is optimizing against cold, wet spring soil. (2) Soil temperature versus calendar date: most Extension services now say the honest trigger is soil temperature at 4 inches, not the frost date, and the frost-relative number is a convenience translation. A cold, wet spring can push the real date two or three weeks past the calendar recommendation. (3) Days-to-maturity is variety-specific and is measured differently for direct-seeded versus transplanted crops - seed catalogs count from transplant date for tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and cole crops, but from sowing for roots and greens - so a 'days to maturity' range of 60-85 for tomato is genuinely 60-85 depending on which packet you bought. Additionally, the average last frost is a 50% probability, meaning half of all years have a frost after that date; Extension services commonly advise waiting 1-2 weeks past it for anything frost-tender, or being prepared to cover. Treat every number here as plus or minus about 10-14 days.

On the station itself: a weather station is one point. Cities hold their heat, valleys pool cold air, and a garden on a north slope can run two weeks behind one a mile away. Treat this page as your starting point and let your own garden correct it — that is exactly what the journal in the app is for.

Nearby locations

Houston, TX zone 9b Cypress, TX zone 9b Alief, TX zone 9b Pasadena, TX zone 9b Sugar Land, TX zone 9b Pearland, TX zone 9b

Want this on your phone, in your garden? Moon Phase Garden keeps your frost dates, your planting windows and tonight's moon phase in one place, works offline, and lets you override these dates with what your own garden actually does. Free and ad-free.

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